Dismantling a precision device like a camera may seem like a daunting prospect to many. There is a natural concern that either or both focus and exposure mechanisms might be irreversibly damaged. Caution is certainly wise but fortune favours the brave! The T4 is constructed in such a way that you CANNOT disrupt the accuracy of the focussing merely by separating the four main pieces of the camera.

Essentially, the camera is made up of back-body shell, front-body shell, center-frame and the main chassis that carries all the good stuff. It is held together with TEN self tapping screws. Only four are visible on the outside.

A further four are accessible inside the film chamber. There is one tricky screw partially underneath the film-door hinge, but it CAN and should be removed without disturbing the hinge. Finally, there are two screws inside the battery chamber. Yes, there is the obligatory ONE hidden screw underneath the sticky label that indicates battery polarity. The label itself is quite a robust plasticised material and will extract with little or no damage to be replaced later.

To avoid any confusion, there is an ELEVENTH screw that retains the film canister pressure spring, but, as it is not involved in retaining any pieces of the body shell, it can be ignored. Further, although many of the screws look and probably ARE the same, it is sensible to draw a little map of the camera and actually attach each screw to it's corresponding place on the map with a little loop of paper tape. This eliminates the possibility of error, which can be tragic if not entirely fatal when working with self-tapping screws and ABS plastic!

With all the screws removed, the front and rear covers will pop away from the centre-frame and chassis part with little effort. To avoid any cosmetic damage, do not use a short edge like a screwdriver to lever the pieces apart. Use the long edge of a sharp knife so that the force is spread along a section of the moulding. Be aware that the front panel, apart from the screws, is held by five tags. Two snap tags at the top and one at the battery end. Also, there are locating tags (that don't actually "catch" anything) one at the base and one at the wrist-strap end. In fact, the upper screw on the wrist-end and the base screw furthest from the 1/4" thread-hole pass through these tags. Because the tags are on the front panel and the catches are on the center-frame, a slight downward/inward pressure on the edge of the front panel will help to release the tags from the catches without too much force being needed. Remember, these tags are designed to "pop" in and out with "assembly-line force".